This was my fourth foray into the world of birding, and I’m still learning what, exactly, keeps me hooked. So far I’ve tried forests and plains; this time I wanted to test myself in the mountains. Zuluk—perched on the historic Silk Route—felt like the perfect high-altitude classroom.

After flying into Bagdogra, our tour manager drove us up to Padamchen, our base camp at 8,400 ft. Each morning we rolled out at 5 a.m., inching upward through 9,400 ft-high Zuluk to 14,400 ft in Gnathang Valley. On a clear day, Kanchenjunga revealed itself in breathtaking fashion.

Mountain birding is a different game. The birds blend flawlessly into rocky valleys, and finding them demands both patience and an expert ear. We had the latter in Suraj Khulal, a veteran guide who could pick a call out of thin air. Once he heard a note, we’d race ten minutes up—or down—the switchbacks, hoping the bird hadn’t vanished. Most of the time, success meant simply soaking in the silence; when a subject did appear, we grabbed every shooting opportunity we could.

I’d planned four days, but cut it to two. That meant missing a few of Zuluk’s specialties—but there’s always a next time, and I’ll be back better prepared..